FRANKFURT. APFELWEIN. KULTUR.

Name: Trierer Weinapfel (Sortenreiner) Apfelwein 2011
Producer: Weidmann & Groh, Norman Groh
Region: Friedberg-Ockstadt, Hessen. Germany
Style: Single Varietal (sortenreiner), Premium Still Apfelwein (German cider)
Type: Semi-Dry (halbtrocken)
Bottle: 750ml (wine bottle)
Alcohol: 6.0%

With the availability of a wide range of fruit from his own orchards, Norman Groh is producing a some excellent apfelweins. Hand made in relatively small quantities, the range varies from season to season depending on the availability of each apple variety and on the preferences of the apfelwein maker. On this occasion, Norman Groh has produced a wonderful single variety apfelwein from the Trierer Weinapfel, an apple much loved in southern Germany and a typical cider apple with high levels of acidity and tannin with a very low level of sugar.

(Source for the Roter Trier Weinapfel image: www.obstsortendatenbank.de)

This apfelwein is made by splitting the apples into two streams, one of which is pressed and immediately transferred to a fermentation tank, while the other half is allowed to slowly begin to ferment while still ‘on the most’. This is quite a non-traditional practice for apfelwein whereas it is common, for example, in the British cider tradition. The result is a deeper colour and a more complex flavour. In addition, the apples have been stored before pressing to develop the sugars, and again this is an extremely atypical practice in Germany, whereas it is pretty much the basis of British cider making.

The colour in the glass is a deep golden orange, while the aroma is sweet with hints of mature apple and spices.

On tasting, the initial impression is big with plenty of sweetness, lots of woody flavours as well as cooked, spiced apples. There is plenty of acidity which can be felt on the sides of the tongue. It hints in the direction of a barrel matured cider, or even elements of a raisin-like late harvest wine. The middle is heavy sweet apples, while the finish is short and soft with little of the long tannin that one might expect to find in a cider made with the Trierer Weinapfel.

Overall this is a great direction for apfelwein which plays to the strength of the apfelwein maker, as well as offering connoisseurs and non-apfelwein drinkers a great new possibility. This is a really drinkable apfelwein.

A version of this review is also available here.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

Name: Apfelschaumwein (Trocken) Methode Classique, 2011
Producer: Apfelweinkontor in collaboration with Kelterei Joachim Döhne
Region: North Hessen, Germany
Style: Sparkling Apfelwein (bottle fermented, méthode traditionnelle)
Type: Dry (trocken)
Bottle: 750ml (champagne style)
Alcohol: 10.0%

Apfelweinkontor continues to set new standards for modern premium apfelwein (german cider). This time, in collaboration with Joachim Döhne, it is an outstanding ‘champagne style’ sparkling apfelschaumwein, hand made using the méthode traditionnelle or méthode classique.

This apfelschaumwein is made using local apples from the north Hessen region near Kassel. It is produced from a variety of apples which are each fermented into a dry apfelwein before a cuvée is made, bottled, and then fermented for a second time in the bottle. After secondary fermentation (a period of anything between 3 and 9 months), and hand turning (riddling), the bottles are disgorged and a dosage is added to the crisp dry schaumwein before being hand corked and labelled.

The wine has a beautiful deep golden colour and a strong but subtle and long lasting perlage.

It must be said that the aroma is incredible, bursting with incredible fresh fruit, apple, and a hint (in olfactory terms) of sweetness.

On tasting, there is all of this and more: again the fresh fruit, with hints of sweetness, filling the mouth with caramel flavours before gradually giving way to a firm acidity. This latter is the key to the wine. Without the crisp, clear, firm structure of acidity the palate would be overcome by fruit. On the middle palate there is a definite transition to a ‘champagne-like’ dryness, before finishing with a surprisingly long apple sensation.

Overall, this is a wonderful sparkling apfelwein that harnesses strong elements (freshness, acidity, yeast, dryness, sweetness) in a subtle and deft combination. At the price (ca. 14 euros) it is hard to imagine a better quality, or value, sparkling wine of any kind.

I tasted the Apfelweinkontor, Apfelschaumwein (Trocken) Methode Classique 2011 with my friend Eduardo, so you can find a Spanish language review here. A further English language review is available here.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

Name: Apfelschaumwein (Trocken) Methode Classique, 2011
Producer: Apfelweinkontor in collaboration with Kelterei Joachim Döhne
Region: North Hessen, Germany
Style: Sparkling Apfelwein (bottle fermented, méthode traditionnelle)
Type: Dry (trocken)
Bottle: 750ml (champagne style)
Alcohol: 10.0%

Apfelweinkontor continues to set new standards for modern premium apfelwein (german cider). This time, in collaboration with Joachim Döhne, it is an outstanding ‘champagne style’ sparkling apfelschaumwein, hand made using the méthode traditionnelle or méthode classique.

This apfelschaumwein is made using local apples from the north Hessen region near Kassel. It is produced from a variety of apples which are each fermented into a dry apfelwein before a cuvée is made, bottled, and then fermented for a second time in the bottle. After secondary fermentation (a period of anything between 3 and 9 months), and hand turning (riddling), the bottles are disgorged and a dosage is added to the crisp dry schaumwein before being hand corked and labelled.

The wine has a beautiful deep golden colour and a strong but subtle and long lasting perlage.

It must be said that the aroma is incredible, bursting with incredible fresh fruit, apple, and a hint (in olfactory terms) of sweetness.

On tasting, there is all of this and more: again the fresh fruit, with hints of sweetness, filling the mouth with caramel flavours before gradually giving way to a firm acidity. This latter is the key to the wine. Without the crisp, clear, firm structure of acidity the palate would be overcome by fruit. On the middle palate there is a definite transition to a ‘champagne-like’ dryness, before finishing with a surprisingly long apple sensation.

Overall, this is a wonderful sparkling apfelwein that harnesses strong elements (freshness, acidity, yeast, dryness, sweetness) in a subtle and deft combination. At the price (ca. 14 euros) it is hard to imagine a better quality, or value, sparkling wine of any kind.

I tasted the Apfelweinkontor, Apfelschaumwein (Trocken) Methode Classique 2011 with my friend Eduardo, so you can find a Spanish language review here. A further English language review is available here.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

Name: Muskatrenette (Späte Ernte) 2011
Producer: Obsthof-am-Steinberg, Andreas Schneider
Region: Frankfurt (Nieder-Erlenbach), Hessen. Germany
Style: Single Varietal (sortenreiner), Premium Still Apfelwein (German cider)
Type: Dry/Semi-dry (trocken/halb)
Bottle: 750ml (wine bottle)
Alcohol: 7.0%

The Muskatrenette from Obsthof-am-Steinberg is an organically certified, single varietal apfelwein (German cider) presented in 750ml riesling-style bottle. Of note is the apple variety which originally came from France or Holland but was grown and developed in England and is related to the Cox. Furthermore, the apples are late picked which adds a further dimension to the apfelwein.

(Image source: www.obstsortendatenbank.de)

In the glass it the palest of pale yellow and very still without the slightest natural effervescence.

The aroma is extremely light, bordering on undetectable, with only a hint of sweetness.

On tasting, however, there is an abundance of fruit, with fresh apples, and a roundness resulting from a good balance between acidity and residual sugar. Keep in mind that this is a dry style apfelwein but there may be a touch more sweetness due to the late harvest of the apples. It is heavy on the middle palate, while the finish is much lighter but with a long lasting intensity coming from the underlying acidity which is hidden but still present.

Overall, this is a great apfelwein which, somehow, feels festive… perhaps because of its round character and the blaze of yellow and gold on the label.

I tasted the Muskatrenette (Späte Ernte) 2011 with my friend Eduardo, so you can find a Spanish language review here. A version in English is also available here.

Name: Boskoop “Alte Bäume” (Lagenapfel) 2011
Producer: Obsthof-am-Steinberg, Andreas Schneider
Region: Frankfurt (Nieder-Erlenbach), Hessen. Germany
Style: Single varietal (sortenreiner), premium still apfelwein (German cider)
Type: Dry (trocken)
Bottle: 750ml (wine bottle)
Alcohol: 8.0%

Obsthof-am-Steinberg is well known in the Frankfurt region for producing some of the best, high quality, artisanal apfelweins (german cider) available. In addition to being finely crafted, virtually every apple is grown by Andreas Schneider on his own biologically certified farm. Add to this the fact that you can sit under these very trees and sample this beautiful modern apfelwein all with a view of  the Frankfurt skyline.

Presented in a riesling style bottle, this organically certified apfelwein (german cider) is made from a single apple variety, the lovely and very versatile Boskoop. Obsthof-am-Steinberg has a great variety of trees but these Boskoop apples come from the older trees on the farm.

In the glass it is a very light straw colour and has the lightest effervescence although this is a still apfelwein which is filtered and crystal clear in the glass.

The aroma is typical Boskoop, very fruity with a combination of bitter and buttery notes.

Tasting proceeds in three stages: the initial experience on the front of the tongue is light, crisp and fruity. Its surprisingly sweet for what is basically a dry apfelwein. On the middle palate the full character of the Boskoop goes to work, with good acidity, not too overbearing, but round and balanced perfectly with some sweetness. Finally, the finish is very light, with almost no tannin, and surprisingly long fruit.

Overall, this is an extremely well crafted afpelwein (german cider) which is balanced, round and works by making everything from the structure of the single apple variety. These apfelweins do not come cheaply but neither will you find many alternatives which are so expressive and well executed.

I tasted the Boskoop “Alte Bäume” 2011 with my friend Eduardo, so you can find a Spanish language review here. A version in English is also available here.

We were lucky enough to spend the evening last night with the trio from APFELWEINKONTOR, and… secreted among the bottles on the table… was a sample of the new vintage Wein aus Äpfeln.

It is difficult to express just how good this new apfelwein is. The 2010 vintage already set a new standard for premium apfelwein, but the new vintage goes further. Of course, the conditions, the apples, the sun, etc., always play a role… but at the heart of Wein aus Äpfeln is simply the cleanest, most perfect, foundation that we’ve experienced.

The 2012 vintage combines clean purity with a much bigger, fruitier aroma than the 2010. At the same time, the structure of this apfelwein is so expertly crafted that the fruit comes in distinct waves across the palate: soft berries, exotic fruits, a slight woodiness, and then crisp green apple. The finish is surprisingly soft, while remaining clean and dry. This apfelwein has perfect structure and depth.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

This unassuming apfelwein is actually something of a surprise: it is made purely from a single variety of apples, and that apple is ‘Bohnapfel’, the cornerstone of Frankfurter apfelwein.

Apfelwein makers in Hessen (Germany*) lead the world in the creation of the difficult, unblended, single variety drink (in the Anglophone world this is almost unheard of). It results from several factors: incredible expertise, technology, culture… and a plentiful supply of pure cider apples. In this case, the choice of the Bohnapfel alone is clever, creating a showcase for this archetypal apple.

In sensory terms, the 2010 Bohnapfel from Weidmann & Groh is a paragon: the nose is full of fresh fruit and apple blossoms; on the palate it has robust fresh fruit, again, but also a hint of woodiness. The Bohnapfel variety is renowned for its complex structure of acids and tannins and these are present in a harmonious way, entering the nasal system on the back palate, before finishing with a smooth dryness. All this from the purity of a single apple variety.

* Hessen is the region surrounding Frankfurt, and apfelwein comes almost exclusively from this region alone.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

With stunning quality and superb apple character, this sparkling apfelwein (apfelschaumwein) is completely handmade in the full méthode champenoise.* The secondary bottle fermentation takes a full 9 months and is hand riddled (fr. remuage), therefore each bottle is nearly two years in the making!

The result is tangy and fresh with a wonderful full apple aroma. It has a dry (champagne-like) character as well as a light residual sugar, all carried by a supreme perlage (a beautiful word meaning how the bubbles look and feel). It is made from carefully selected apples including from special nature reserves in the Odenwald region.

The maker, Dieter Walz, one of Hessen’s most innovative premium apfelwein makers, could be called a collector of aromas. His main interest (he is also a master Schnapps maker) is the conservation of aromas in the drink. His creations are nuance rich, aroma intensive, and make a clear concise impression. He uses only fresh local fruit, but above all, he works with his hands and therefore has a special feel for what he makes. This 2009 Apfelwalzer will, without doubt, eclipse any run of the mill prosecco or champagne.

* A word of warning here. Apfelschaumwein is completely unrelated to the fizzy cider common in the Anglophone world and can only be compared with a good champagne wine. If you don’t believe it, then try it…!

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

A beautiful cuvée of apple and pear, this apfelwein has an aroma full of earthy tones and floral fruity notes. Handcrafted in the traditional way, Norman Groh’s Pompiri (pompiri is a latin reference to pear) is unashamedly soft, round and full, while retaining the complex character of classical apfelwein.

The nose on the Pompiri is only subtly sweet, just like a pear, and just like eating the fruit, on the palate the drink combines the light sweetness and heavy tannin of pear (characteristic of this fruit vs. apples). If you expect this combination to finish with an avalanche of sugar it does not. The structure and character of a crisp apfelwein remains the foundation.

The name of this apfelwein - Pompiri - sums up the tradition of apfelwein making in the region of Frankfurt: it combines innovations from Roman antiquity (i.e. more than 1,000 years of wine making) with a deep regional tradition and a unique culture. This historical combination means you will not find apfelwein anywhere else.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

Jörg Stier is a master apfelwein maker (Keltermeister), hand making and blending fresh apfelweins to create a traditional yet accessible drink. A great introduction to apfelwein, Hessen à la Carte Shoppen* marries a typically dry, tannic apfelwein (German cider) with just the right amount of sweetness and a light effervescence. However, it is nothing like today’s characterless, sweet and mass produced ciders.

In the glass, one is struck by the rich, cloudy, golden colour. On the nose there is intense apple aroma which prepares the palate for a zingy and complexly fruity flavour. This is followed by the intense interaction of apple acidity on the middle palate, before finishing with a pleasing balance of astringent tannins and fresh fruit sweetness. This is an apfelwein which is easy drinking, but with qualities to be appreciated.

The presentation of Hessen à la Carte in the bottle just oozes style, evincing the deep German traditions of woodcut prints and the culture of art and design. In 1 litre bottles and with 6% alcohol it is equally suited to a summer session with friends or accompanying a crisp pork roast in winter. Hessen à la Carte is also a great alternative to craft beers and the sickly sweetness of commercial cider.

* Schoppen is the colloquial term in the region of Hessen (surrounding Frankfurt) referring to a measure of traditional apfelwein, but it is also shorthand for apfelwein.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

Wein aus Äpfeln 2010 has a complexity of character to rival a good white wine (a Riesling-like purity. Yes, really…!) and displays qualities and dimensions simply unattainable by its Anglophone cousin: commercial cider.

What strikes the eye even before drinking this award winning (Apfel-Compagnie E.V., Pomme d´Or 2011) apfelwein is its rich straw colour and playful hand-drawn label. A thoroughly contemporary apfelwein, yet still anchored in traditional methods of production, it is made from fresh mixed field apples (streuobstäpfeln)… only! Fermented in steel tanks, it is then bottled young and crisp in the year of vintage.

The trio from APFELWEINKONTOR have created a masterful and modern apfelwein with fresh aroma and well integrated acidity. On the palate it is lively and tangy but with a subtle sweetness, before a more complex acidity on the middle palate, then finally a gentle, almost nutty, tannic finish. Drink it just (very) lightly chilled, and enjoy it with chicken, fish or cream sauce dishes. This is the apfelwein for wine drinkers.

Alcohol content 6.6% vol., total phenols 602 mg/l, total acidity 6.1 g/l, residual sugar 6.2 g/l

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

With the 2010 Speierling from Weidmann & Groh, Norman Groh has made something special. He takes a traditional classic, unique to the region, and turns it into something sublime. Speierling embodies the essence of ‘Frankfurter’ apfelwein, it has full and complex apple character, stability, clarity, a lovely colour and highly prized flavour.

Hand crafted from only local Wetterau field apples (streuobst) it blends aroma and character, beginning with a light fruitiness, then complex acidity, before finishing with crisp tannin. This apfelwein is wonderfully harmonious. Fresh and crisp, yet with character enough to make it a perfect accompaniment to food, such as meat or even (!) with dry spices. This is one of our favourites.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)

In the tradition of apfelwein making in the region of Hessen* there is a saying: “one must take the apfelwein off the yeast before the apple flowers bloom.” OK, in German it rhymes, but we spent the evening last night with Jörg Stier sampling the new season apfelwein. It is now several weeks into January and these new apfelweins have all been taken off the yeast in December. The quality, aroma, acidity, and complexity are, in each case, entirely different… but all of them are fantastic!

An early tip for the season is… the Speierling. Stier is working on several amazing apfelweins using this traditional fruit.

* The region in southern Germany surrounding Frankfurt am Main.

(Source: ciderhaus.com.au)